SC500 part 6: from Kirkcaldy to Portobello
Kirkcaldy to Edinburgh via Burntisland, Aberdour, posh houses in Dalgetty Bay, more WW1 gun batteries, a big red bridge, shooting on Dalmeny estate, clam collectors at low tide Cramond and a big cruise ship in Leith. All rounded up with a lovely welcome in Portobello. Thänks to the co-walkers on the last day and @artwalkporty for organising a refreshing welcome at the festival hub. Now taking a wee break with family and then move on to Berwick on Tweed at the end of the month.
Thursday 24 August, Day 50, St Andrews to Anstruther, 43777 steps
Wow breakfast, in MacIntosh Hall, but sharing rooms, bit outdated?, glorious day, glorious University, Anthropology Dept, erlaucht!, Looking back, like Riviera, whatsapp Elisabetta, phd-d here, up down, up down, big rocks, all red, golf course, to the horizons, view back, to Arbroath, Carnoustie…, turn round, at Fife Ness, Isle of May, East Lothian, sandy beach, tempting, but no, 30k today, Crail, cute, push on, Anstruther, fish and chips, beer, B+B not in A., wrongly booked, shit, taxi, all good.
Friday 25th August 2023, Day 51, Anstruther to Methil, 36951 steps
Michael!, heart bump, cappuccino, postcard, off, Pittenweem, art festival, never been, all cute, long beach, tourists, all over, farmshop, best shop, since Portobello, Rich, Fife Access officer, looks after path, safety first, lots of stakeholders, butterfly man, butterflies first, not path, tourists in summer, rest other times, long beach, long walk, hot today, M tells about job, carvan city, Alan Faulds, sculptour, oak, colourful and cynical, over the Leven, round roundabout, through council estate, flat, postcard, washing machine, insta, cooking, wine, knackered.
Saturday 26 August 2023, Day 52, Methil to Kirkcaldy, 20045 steps
Vetriano land, born here, hired flat a museum, to him, first kiss, powerplant, Rachel comes, with the baby twins, shorter day, council houses, run-down, why, like this, pink benches, see Portobello, text you, coast, at last, castles, caves, up and down, café, Greek quiche, no Greek taste, hot, schwitz, Rubiales’ World Cup kiss, seal colony, heron, up above, TRUMP WON, the shore, all family good, bus back to Methil, Andrea arrives.
Sunday 27 August 2023, Day 53, Kirkcaldy to Dalgety Bay, 34700 steps
Early rise, avoid marathon, high rise buildings, to shore, Kinghorn, shower, hard, anorak, café, fried egg, onwards, high tide, detour, along railway, done this so many times, Huntly-Edinburgh, Edinburgh-Huntly, Silversands, Aberdour, pee, 30p, skirting oil terminal, sigh, Andrea so fit, Burntisland, perfect ice-cream, salted caramel, Forth bridge, in sight, rucksack still hurts, ‘I have a dream’ speech, 60 years, Dalgety bay, fancy houses, St Bridget, cute church, Kate/Michael artists catch up, leftovers in Indian restaurant.
Sunday 27 August 2023, Day 53, Kirkcaldy to Dalgety Bay, 34700 steps
Early rise, avoid marathon, high rise buildings, to shore, Kinghorn, shower, hard, anorak, café, fried egg, onwards, high tide, detour, along railway, done this so many times, Huntly-Edinburgh, Edinburgh-Huntly, Silversands, Aberdour, pee, 30p, skirting oil terminal, sigh, Andrea so fit, Burntisland, perfect ice-cream, salted caramel, Forth bridge, in sight, rucksack still hurts, ‘I have a dream’ speech, 60 years, Dalgety bay, fancy houses, St Bridget, cute church, Kate/Michael artists catch up, leftovers in Indian restaurant.
Monday 28 August 2023, Day 54, Dalgety Bay to Cramond, 33765 steps
Egg roll, posh houses, where is the heart?, WW1 contraptions, the bridge, so beautiful, Inverkeithing, sad looking, air traffic control, mess, onto bridge, Ukrainian woman, no English, sad, live in hotel, over bridge, argument, with Nick, over photos, solve it visually, Asian woman on other side, take the photo, lunch, with mussels, a little wine, to celebrate, getting sadder, no joke, Dalmeny, more shooting, pheasants, fligths above, Ryan Air, BA, TUI, Almond river, Cramond, sad mood.
Friday 1 September 2023, Day 55, Cramond to Portobello, 25656 steps
Early rise, Cramond meet, Lara, Margaret, Natalie, Annie, Jane, 10am, prompt, people on sand, in sea, what they doing?, Chinese: catch clams, Scots: catch bait, tide very out, only once every 3 month, another sea knowledge, Cramond Pier, windy, brick beach, weird, Portobello learning, choir, noisy road, stinky, Bakery, railway path, Seafield, family, so nice, you, so nice, others, welcome, hub, prosecco, nackered.